Electron beam device tests
Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 4:59 pm
To get some sort of gut feel for how charged particles behaved, we built an electron linac. Nothing too impressive here, just a test device. Some parts of of it worked better than others, but as usual, the failures were as instructive as any other part of the project. Now that there are a few here who know a thing or few about beams, perhaps they can add to this and illuminate us all.
Here is a picture of the thing as built up. As usual, click the pic for a bigger version. After reading some literature, I decided to try a "Pierce diode" as the source. This should have helped get most of the electrons going in a nice straight beam out of it, and it seems to have worked. We had to spend some time building this, and finding out about how to get decent emission under the conditions. We actually did the emission tests with another jig I'd made to be a twin filament "triode" which could be used as either a real triode, or an ion gage. We found that with the filaments we were using that things simply got too hot if we heated the pure tungsten hot enough to get decent emission, in our case about 10ma was wanted. So we did the work to try emission enhancing substances, starting with the things that work well in electron tubes, which was a mix of barium and strontium carbonates, later activated in vacuum. The two filament jig let us run comparisons of two things with only one door opening on the tank to replace them. Well, the Ba/Sr mix did work and at a much lower temperature, but...post activation it was quickly ruined by air exposure, and in our rig we didn't control the activation temperature well enough, and found that if you melt the stuff, that kills it too. So based on a hint in some paper, we obtained (thanks Bill) and tried some Yttria, which worked about half as well, but didn't degrade after that -- it was rugged and allowed us to get the desired emission at much lower temps than pure tungsten did. Here's a pic of our test rig. We tested this as though it were a normal tube triode (mu about 2, and yes, you could make an oscillator with it) and as an ion gage (it worked fine) but in this context as a way to test emission from various filament configurations and coatings. We used small 6v quartz halogen bulbs we cut off with a diamond wheel in our toolpost grinder, or just crushed with pliers, with a full voltage filament current of around 2 amps. With the yttria coating, we were able to get our target emission with about 3.5 V on the filaments which had them in the low yellow to orange heat. Great! Now to make a diode to drive some lenses and so on for acceleration and focus. Here is the cathode assembly. We found a drill bit that made the angle about right for a Pierce cathode, and did the various machining steps on the lathe in OFHC copper billet. The step is to accept the glass, and the backside is bored to match the little light bulb and position the filament correctly in the hole. We also made the anode of pure copper, with a small exit hole and a bit of shield after that, bored out large, also stepped to fit the glass tubing we used. To get the required close spacing to have decent emission at reasonable voltage, we spaced the two with a washer we punched out of india glass (mica) from McMaster. This gave us the basic diode. Now, copper is kind of hard to machine well, not to mention not being real cheap, so we found some very thick wall bronze pipe (yeah, but it was the only thing we could find the right size) and made the lens elements for an Einzel lens for the rest. This is all shown in this mockup here -- we did adjust the lengths of the glass segments (pyrex) to make it all fit better, using that toolpost grinder we made for the lathe to cut the glass. I had thought we would not need a short focal length system here, as it was a long way to the tank, and didn't yet know the math for couloumb (space charge) spreading. I tried this with fairly low voltages generated from CCFL inverters driven off adjustable regulators. About a kV or two for the Einzel lens and a couple hundred volts for the main diode source. Well, we learned some things. For one thing, small stray magnetic fields are a problem if you have low energy charged particles flying long distances -- the earth's field alone were troublesome. Also, space charge spreading was severe, so we wound up shortening the lens element spacings and using more voltage on the lens elements and extraction. The idea was going to be to provide most of the acceleration potential between this whole thing and the tank, using the tank coupling as the last lens element, which did work, but was kind of dodgy to be around when we ran 20kv or so there. All of this was sealed off with Apiezon wax W, which is why we wound up with the copper flashing "corona rings" which aren't that -- they are just heatsinks, and once we made the jig to make one, well....we just made more for all the elements, so it was easy to solder banana jacks to them for playing around easily. We could have sealed this up another way that would have made heat less important, but making it leak free and easy to change were paramount design parameters. What was nice about the large spacings was we could see the beam hitting the glass when we adjusted things wrong, so it was educational if nothing else. But the basic takeaway was, get them going fast, fast -- short spacings, and quickly get to voltage where things like small mag fields and stray charges on the glass wouldn't mess things up in a semi random manner.
The intention here was to make a useful E beam heater, or perhaps a nice focused beam we could scan using a TV deflection yoke. We never took it that far, it was time to build a fusor instead, so we set this aside for now. The main goal was to get that all important gut feel on how this stuff worked, and that goal was accomplished. And of course, we had some fun with it too. I happen to have some neon, so we let a little in the tank to see the beam for example. We also used a 1L pyrex flask in good vacuum as a fluorescing target. This worked fairly well, pyrex is moderately conductive so we didn't have too much trouble with charge buildup on it. However, we did see one strange effect with it. After it had been irradiated for awhile, we opened the tank and took it out. After sitting about a day, we saw a fine white powder on it where we'd been hitting it with the beam. After another day or so of sitting, it deliquesced and was wet. Wiping it off left the glass looking fine but -- I'm not using the flask for anything critical again. Edit: found a picture of the target beaker.
Here is a picture of the thing as built up. As usual, click the pic for a bigger version. After reading some literature, I decided to try a "Pierce diode" as the source. This should have helped get most of the electrons going in a nice straight beam out of it, and it seems to have worked. We had to spend some time building this, and finding out about how to get decent emission under the conditions. We actually did the emission tests with another jig I'd made to be a twin filament "triode" which could be used as either a real triode, or an ion gage. We found that with the filaments we were using that things simply got too hot if we heated the pure tungsten hot enough to get decent emission, in our case about 10ma was wanted. So we did the work to try emission enhancing substances, starting with the things that work well in electron tubes, which was a mix of barium and strontium carbonates, later activated in vacuum. The two filament jig let us run comparisons of two things with only one door opening on the tank to replace them. Well, the Ba/Sr mix did work and at a much lower temperature, but...post activation it was quickly ruined by air exposure, and in our rig we didn't control the activation temperature well enough, and found that if you melt the stuff, that kills it too. So based on a hint in some paper, we obtained (thanks Bill) and tried some Yttria, which worked about half as well, but didn't degrade after that -- it was rugged and allowed us to get the desired emission at much lower temps than pure tungsten did. Here's a pic of our test rig. We tested this as though it were a normal tube triode (mu about 2, and yes, you could make an oscillator with it) and as an ion gage (it worked fine) but in this context as a way to test emission from various filament configurations and coatings. We used small 6v quartz halogen bulbs we cut off with a diamond wheel in our toolpost grinder, or just crushed with pliers, with a full voltage filament current of around 2 amps. With the yttria coating, we were able to get our target emission with about 3.5 V on the filaments which had them in the low yellow to orange heat. Great! Now to make a diode to drive some lenses and so on for acceleration and focus. Here is the cathode assembly. We found a drill bit that made the angle about right for a Pierce cathode, and did the various machining steps on the lathe in OFHC copper billet. The step is to accept the glass, and the backside is bored to match the little light bulb and position the filament correctly in the hole. We also made the anode of pure copper, with a small exit hole and a bit of shield after that, bored out large, also stepped to fit the glass tubing we used. To get the required close spacing to have decent emission at reasonable voltage, we spaced the two with a washer we punched out of india glass (mica) from McMaster. This gave us the basic diode. Now, copper is kind of hard to machine well, not to mention not being real cheap, so we found some very thick wall bronze pipe (yeah, but it was the only thing we could find the right size) and made the lens elements for an Einzel lens for the rest. This is all shown in this mockup here -- we did adjust the lengths of the glass segments (pyrex) to make it all fit better, using that toolpost grinder we made for the lathe to cut the glass. I had thought we would not need a short focal length system here, as it was a long way to the tank, and didn't yet know the math for couloumb (space charge) spreading. I tried this with fairly low voltages generated from CCFL inverters driven off adjustable regulators. About a kV or two for the Einzel lens and a couple hundred volts for the main diode source. Well, we learned some things. For one thing, small stray magnetic fields are a problem if you have low energy charged particles flying long distances -- the earth's field alone were troublesome. Also, space charge spreading was severe, so we wound up shortening the lens element spacings and using more voltage on the lens elements and extraction. The idea was going to be to provide most of the acceleration potential between this whole thing and the tank, using the tank coupling as the last lens element, which did work, but was kind of dodgy to be around when we ran 20kv or so there. All of this was sealed off with Apiezon wax W, which is why we wound up with the copper flashing "corona rings" which aren't that -- they are just heatsinks, and once we made the jig to make one, well....we just made more for all the elements, so it was easy to solder banana jacks to them for playing around easily. We could have sealed this up another way that would have made heat less important, but making it leak free and easy to change were paramount design parameters. What was nice about the large spacings was we could see the beam hitting the glass when we adjusted things wrong, so it was educational if nothing else. But the basic takeaway was, get them going fast, fast -- short spacings, and quickly get to voltage where things like small mag fields and stray charges on the glass wouldn't mess things up in a semi random manner.
The intention here was to make a useful E beam heater, or perhaps a nice focused beam we could scan using a TV deflection yoke. We never took it that far, it was time to build a fusor instead, so we set this aside for now. The main goal was to get that all important gut feel on how this stuff worked, and that goal was accomplished. And of course, we had some fun with it too. I happen to have some neon, so we let a little in the tank to see the beam for example. We also used a 1L pyrex flask in good vacuum as a fluorescing target. This worked fairly well, pyrex is moderately conductive so we didn't have too much trouble with charge buildup on it. However, we did see one strange effect with it. After it had been irradiated for awhile, we opened the tank and took it out. After sitting about a day, we saw a fine white powder on it where we'd been hitting it with the beam. After another day or so of sitting, it deliquesced and was wet. Wiping it off left the glass looking fine but -- I'm not using the flask for anything critical again. Edit: found a picture of the target beaker.