Leak Fixed, lessons learned
Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 6:12 pm
As some here know, I've been dealing with a tiny hard to find leak for a couple of months now.
No more, gotcha.
A pinhole had opened in a solder joint between some 1/8" Cu tubing and a piece of capillary tube soldered into it. What made this devilishly hard to find was that, since that point was run at 2kv as part of the ion source ion extraction, I'd slipped a piece of silicone tubing over it as an insulator. So, running around with a hose spraying He didn't find it easy -- it was too tiny a leak to draw in He along the silicone tubing right away. I''d run around back there, and see nothing, then go somewhere else, see something minutes later -- He finally finding its way down that channel and through the cap tubing....around and around we go.
So, DON'T DO THAT.
Further, the big saftey/emi shield screen I had back there made it real hard to get to. The way I'd done it (hose clamp around the flange with a lot of cutouts) made that so hard to remove and replace I didn't get too up close and personal when it was time to look for the leak, until in desperation I finally ripped it off (it takes two talented people to put back on).
So, DON'T DO THAT EITHER.
OK, so I've fixed the leak and now I have super nice base pressure. See pic! Since that made it purty for the mass spec, I made a couple special runs at very slow speed (1 sec/amu) while hard-baking and after. My hard baking is 2kw worth of quartz heaters at full power, which make enough UV to break up water, and make everything in there very hot very fast. I probably pused a little too hard here and saw some lines from things in the tank decomposing (even lines from the solder on my LV instrument feedthroughs). Maybe a little oil from when I had that motorized throttle valve in there too, who knows. Then I let it cool off and took another spectrum. Now, one last problem to solve. How to have EMI shield that I can put on by myself. So I made this thing, which was more work than it looks like. I had to heat-stretch a piece of 8" PVC from the junkyard to fit an 8" flange (the pipe was about 1/8" less ID) and final sand to a snug fit. I drilled and tapped the flange for a 10-32 bolt to hold it on, and re-jiggered the inside ballast resistor insulator and air channel for it all to fit together. The result was worth it, however, as now I have zero exposed HV wiring and no EMI to speak of at all anymore. The pure copper screen and good grounding scheme sees to that one. The system was back to 1e-7 mbar by the time the turbo spun back up from standby speed (normally I do runs with it at 29% of full speed to make gas control easier).
No more, gotcha.
A pinhole had opened in a solder joint between some 1/8" Cu tubing and a piece of capillary tube soldered into it. What made this devilishly hard to find was that, since that point was run at 2kv as part of the ion source ion extraction, I'd slipped a piece of silicone tubing over it as an insulator. So, running around with a hose spraying He didn't find it easy -- it was too tiny a leak to draw in He along the silicone tubing right away. I''d run around back there, and see nothing, then go somewhere else, see something minutes later -- He finally finding its way down that channel and through the cap tubing....around and around we go.
So, DON'T DO THAT.
Further, the big saftey/emi shield screen I had back there made it real hard to get to. The way I'd done it (hose clamp around the flange with a lot of cutouts) made that so hard to remove and replace I didn't get too up close and personal when it was time to look for the leak, until in desperation I finally ripped it off (it takes two talented people to put back on).
So, DON'T DO THAT EITHER.
OK, so I've fixed the leak and now I have super nice base pressure. See pic! Since that made it purty for the mass spec, I made a couple special runs at very slow speed (1 sec/amu) while hard-baking and after. My hard baking is 2kw worth of quartz heaters at full power, which make enough UV to break up water, and make everything in there very hot very fast. I probably pused a little too hard here and saw some lines from things in the tank decomposing (even lines from the solder on my LV instrument feedthroughs). Maybe a little oil from when I had that motorized throttle valve in there too, who knows. Then I let it cool off and took another spectrum. Now, one last problem to solve. How to have EMI shield that I can put on by myself. So I made this thing, which was more work than it looks like. I had to heat-stretch a piece of 8" PVC from the junkyard to fit an 8" flange (the pipe was about 1/8" less ID) and final sand to a snug fit. I drilled and tapped the flange for a 10-32 bolt to hold it on, and re-jiggered the inside ballast resistor insulator and air channel for it all to fit together. The result was worth it, however, as now I have zero exposed HV wiring and no EMI to speak of at all anymore. The pure copper screen and good grounding scheme sees to that one. The system was back to 1e-7 mbar by the time the turbo spun back up from standby speed (normally I do runs with it at 29% of full speed to make gas control easier).