Yes. Plastic scintillators are based on one of several basic plastics. Polystyrene (PS), polyvinyl toluene (PVT), or polyvinyl xylene (PVX) are most common. These capture radiation, but are very weak emitters of light, so another substance (actually, usually two) is dissolved in the plastic to capture the excitation energy and transform it into photons of suitable energy to get through the plastic and through a PMT window after that -- most of the plastics are very good at absorbing the little bit of very short UV they create when hit by a particle, so large Stokes shift fluors are added, and it usually takes two to shift the wavelength down low enough to not need a quartz PMT face and very short plastic lengths so you get any detection. Usually the primary fluor added is added in enough quantity to get the energy transfer by dipole coupling, rather than radiation (photon) as that doesn't get real far through the base plastic, then another fluor eats that and downshifts the photon energy further to the blue or green -- where the cheap (but very good) bialkali phototubes have a sensitivity peak.
Of the plastics, PVX is most rad resistant, then PVT, then PS (they get dark when irradiated at least to the wavelengths that matter here -- just as glass does). PVX is really toxic, PVT less so, and PS the least. So PVT is the norm these days. I have many chapters about this junk in that book, far too much to post up here (literally several hundred pages on the mechanisms and scintillator design and selection). The plastics stink for energy resolution for various reasons, including that it takes a very long length to absorb all the energy of a photon or other radiation, and light may not all get to the PMT the same, but they are pretty good at quantum efficiency for what they do get, nicely sensitive especially when coupled to a modern PMT, like most of the stuff Hammamtsu makes for this. The various tradeoffs in the added fluors are things like how rad resistant they are themselves, how fast they are, how quantum efficient they are and so forth -- lots of choice there. No one uses "just the base plastic" though in the past some people used pure naphthalene or anthracene and got decent results. For applications like colliders, rad resistance and speed are all important, they kind of don't get down to the highest energies we get up to anyway, so they don't care that much about QE, and can skip the last few mev in a shower detector/calorimeter with not much effect -- or so they say in the book they wrote that I have here and am more or less paraphrasing.
Primary fluors go by acronyms like PTP (para terphenyl), BPBD (no, I'm not typing that), PPO, PBD etc. Secondaries go by things like POPOP, bis-MSB,TPB, and BBQ, as well as a few "proprietary" ones. The various combinations are listed on the usual sites for these things as standard numbers that don't reveal the actual formula, usually.Like here
. The third one in the table is real common out there surplus, and is a goodie. EJ-208 is what I think we've got and Geo was selling.
For example, outside the plastics, they were looking at BaF, but that emits in the very short UV region and would have required fancier phototubes to even detect. They liked it because of speed and rad hardness and were maybe willing to put up with the rest to get the desired properties. BGO, though nearly 1/4 as efficienct as NaI was looked at but at 35 ns decay was slower than the bunch rep rate for their project, so they couldn't use it -- but it's common out there surplus for PET scanners. NaI is useless to them because it's not very rad hard and gets activated itself, and that's one heck of a noise issue when it's the scint itself getting hot! And it has a longer radiation length than BGO as well. At any rate, there are also a ton of crystals with various dopants -- same idea, out there too, usually a little better and a lot more expensive. Look at the Eljen or Bicron main site and fish around a little.
We got a bunch of Hammamatsu dual cathode phototubes and BGO xtals stripped from a PET scanner, and they work dandy, and the PMTS are also good on the plastics, very low dark spurious photon counts and good blue sensitivity without troublesome near-IR sensitivity (which makes getting things light tight a metric crap-ton easier). Pretty much everything else tried here (hundreds of other combos) has been inferior to those, especially older surplus stuff -- the newer Japanese phototubes really are superior.
Posting as just me, not as the forum owner. Everything I say is "in my opinion" and YMMV -- which should go for everyone without saying.